On the road from Santa Fe to Aspen, sand dunes, hot springs and summer snow
By: Patricia

Aspenhas become synonymous with skiing, it is probably one of the best known ski resorts in the country if not the world. As famous as the trendy European ski destinations of Gstaad, Chamonix and St. Moritz, it may be known as much for the A-listers who congregate there as for the slopes.

The drive from Santa Fe on highways and back roads is a beautiful one, with great mountain views almost all the way. The difference in landscapes between the two places is vast. The New Mexico part of the journey (through the San Luis Valley in Colorado) is very much high-desert. As you enter Colorado the mountains go from red to grey stone. On the north side of Poncha Pass the scenery starts getting greener and the peaks taller. This is an area of 14,000 ft. high peaks known as“The Fourteeners”.

Head out of Santa Fe on US 285/84 (aka St. Francis Dr).; in Española the roads head west. Watch for the sign on the left median. If you miss the turn you’re on NM 68 heading for Taos. North of Española US 84 heads straight toAbiquiuand US 285 exits to the right; stay with 285.Ojo Calente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa, a bit up the road is a great place to soak, but save them for the way back. There are a few more soaking options up the road when you may need a rest.

At Antonito Colorado, check out the vintage trains and depot at the eastern terminus of theCumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad. At Alamosa, follow US 160 to the right through town, and pick up CO 17 heading north. You will rejpin US285 at Villa Grove. CO 17 cutting through the San Luis Valley is a shorter route, plus you can visit theGreat Sand Dunes National Parknear Mosca, CO. The tallest dunes in North America they are about 12,000 years old and were formed by blowing sand deposits. The park has a diverse ecosystem and is home to at least six species of insects found nowhere else.

Just before CO 17 rejoins US 285 south of Villa Grove, you’ll discoverJoyful Journey Hot Springs. Stop, relax and take a soak if the spirit moves you. The three small man-made pools offer soakers great views. The water contains lithium, a mood-improving mineral; you should emerge feeling relaxed and refreshed. If you’re hungry, there are two small cafés in Villa Grove. Loretta’s Country Kitchen serves hearty down-home food much of it flavored with the San Luis Valley’s signature ingredient, chile. Both red and green are on the menu. Want more traditional American fare, grab a burger or grilled cheese sandwich atVilla Grove Trade, located in a historic general store dating to 1882.

North of town the road starts to climbPoncha Pass. The 9,010 ft. pass separates the San Luis and Arkansas River Valleys. The small town ofPoncha Springshas a few casual food options or you can take a detour east to historicSalidaand grab some lunch. This old railroad town, now a mix of old-timers, artists, outdoors lovers, cowboys and urban transplants, is undergoing a renaissance of sorts. Good thing or bad? Only time will tell.

Continuing north on 285 you are paralleling the Arkansas River. This is a popular rafting destination during spring and summer; there are a number of outfitters serving the area. At Nathrop you can head up to the mountain toMt. Princeton Hot Springs Resortand take a soak or drive up to the top of the road to the “ghost town” ofSt. Elmo. This picturesque old mining town is much as it was in its heyday. The old general store is open May through October selling antiques and souvenirs. There is 20th Century development on the outskirts, but the town is mostly undisturbed.

Just south ofBuena Vista, 285 heads northeast. Stay straight and you will be on CO 24 heading north. Take this until you reach CO 82; head west. The road will take you over breath-takingIndependence Pass. At an elevation of 12,095 ft. it is the highest paved pass in Colorado. It is generally open by Memorial Day and can be used into late October, depending on snowfall. The 44 mile ride between CO 24 and Aspen takes about an hour and a half. Heading west you’ll go through beautiful Alpine scenery, past Twin Lakes and mountain vistas. The road rises above the tree-line to the tundra with glorious mountain views in every direction. At the summit you are atop the Continental Divide; rain that falls to the east heads to the Mississippi River. If it falls to the west, it heads to the Colorado River and ultimately Mexico. There may still be snow at the top. It used to be there all summer, but with warmer temperatures it has tended to melt. There is a parking area and two loop trails. If you want to stretch your legs and don’t mind the elevation, take a hike.

As the road descends, you will discover the ghost town ofIndependence, an abandoned gold mining town and the sometimes ragingRoaring Fork River. The views are not as expansive on this side because of trees but it is still a beautiful ride. As you near Aspen, the road is dotted with campgrounds, one of the few bargain lodging options in the area. On the final leg, large “rustic” houses appear, telling you your trip is almost over. Finally, you are in town; the journey has ended. //